Christmas in Madrid: lights, markets and a half-empty city

December in Madrid is odd and good: the city fills with lights and visitors, and at the same time empties of locals, who go back to their home towns.

Not to be missed

• The Gran Vía and Callao lights, from late November. Free, and the postcard.
• The Plaza Mayor market. More to see than to buy.
• The Three Kings parade, 5 January.
• New Year''s Eve in Puerta del Sol. If you go, go very early. Or stay home with the grapes and the TV, which is what everyone actually does.

Practical

25 December and 1 and 6 January everything is closed, including many supermarkets. Shop before.

And if you are staying in Madrid over those days, say so in the flat group: there is almost always someone else staying.